Today it is part of the Archdiocese of Rabat, and it was most recently restored in 2005. The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, the only Catholic church in Fez, was established in 1919 or 1920, during the French colonial period. Elsewhere, the Jewish quarter (Mellah) is the site of the 17th-century Al-Fassiyin Synagogue and Ibn Danan Synagogue, as well multiple other lesser-known synagogues, though none of them are functioning today. The very oldest mosques of the city, dating back to its first years, were the Mosque of the Sharifs (or Shurafa Mosque) and the Mosque of the Sheikhs (or al-Anouar Mosque); however, they no longer exist in their original form.
- The Palais El Glaoui, the second largest palace in the Fès medina, fascinated us with its history and its many rooms adorned with exceptional architectural details.
- Fez reached its zenith in the Marinid era (13th–15th centuries), regaining its status as political capital.
- We tracked every dirham across Morocco; Fez sat in the middle for costs and was great for everyday eats.
- Take a glimpse at the dazzling exterior of the royal palace.
- Iraqi-born architect Alaa Said, who studied at the Oslo School of Architecture (AHO), has spent more than two decades restoring Fez’s historic houses.
- So if you want to make sure you leave no stone unturned in the largest walled city in the world you could call on the services of a professional guide.
Seamless Delivery
Adjacent to the gardens is the grand mosque Fes el-Jdid, with the most beautifully embellished minaret! Take a glimpse at the dazzling exterior of the royal palace. Sit here at the end of a day of sightseeing and enjoy the sun setting behind this wonderful city. Grab a cheap, fresh juice every morning for the perfect start to a day of exploring. It is one of the most important religious buildings in Fes, and as such, only Muslims are allowed inside.
Between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali is the oldest park in the city, landscaped in the 18th century on the orders of Sultan Moulay Abdallah. In the same vein as other Marinid religious schools in Fez, the Al-Attarine Madrasa has sophisticated decoration on its rectangular courtyard. Some of the best places to dine in Fez are just inside the gateway, affording a front row view of the day-to-day in a Medieval city. What may take you by surprise is how young this monument is compared to the religious schools and shrines in Fez. This is also the only religious school in Fez to have its own minaret, also a work of art and hailed as the finest in the city.
The Royal Palace (Dar Al-Makhzen)
Rachid still grills smoky kefta to pack into khobz (bread) fresh from the oven, and on the small square by Mosquée El Qaffazine, locals tuck into some of the city’s best lobia (white beans stewed with turmeric) and addis (lentils stewed with tomatoes, paprika and cumin). The day begins with a market tour in Rcif, sampling local specialties before returning to a tranquil private house to cook. Set in a 19th-century Andalusian-style palace, the Dar Batha Museum has reopened after major renovation, offering a thoughtful journey through Fez’s history from its medieval foundations to modern times. Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah University is a public university founded in 1975 and is the largest in the city by attendance, counting over 86,000 students in 2020.
Avoid locals trying to direct you to shady parking spots. By midday, tour groups gather near the tanneries and large madrasas; by late afternoon, the souk’s energy swells. This 13th-century city is an imperial city of long-lasting multicultural history, that reserves unexpected surprises for its visitors.
Immerse yourself in the colors of Tanneries Chouara, ancestral know-how
Yes, if “good” means local, cheap, and satisfying. As we visited in the summer, the heat was unbearable on some days. Shoulders and knees covered made entering places easier, and interactions with locals more pleasant. Online reviews were somewhat vague, but we found a great, guarded lot near Al Oud café for 40 MAD per 24 hours—slept fine, car parked fine.
Climb to the Merinid tombs for a breathtaking view of Fez
This fortress, which is currently being restored, bears witness to the military architecture of the period and the desire to protect the imperial city. You can follow a signposted tour that reveals the past opulence of this palatial residence and testifies to the influence of the Glaoui family in the history of Maroc. Because of its large size, this palace was built outside the old medina to mark the royal power in the city’s urban planning. You can admire this spectacular façade, which stands opposite the entrance to the Jnan Sbil park.
- The Borj Nord is designed after the Portuguese gun forts of the period, and had the dual purpose of defending Fes el-Bali, but also keeping the unruly population of the city under control.
- Because of its location, it’s easy to visit while wandering through the medina.
- University of al-Qarawiyyin is still highly regarded in the Muslim world, and while the modern university has been relocated to a newer part of the city, the library and mosque are still couched in the Medina.
- When in Fez, we adjusted to the city within two to three days.
- Several forts were constructed along the defensive perimeters of the medina during different time periods.
We were on a grand tour of Morocco and always looked for a secure parking spot. We felt safe walking the spines and main cross-passages by day and early evening. Both give that “Fez is endless” panorama; only one with coffee vans and parking helpers waving vigorously for coins.
Relax, cool down, and watch the Fes locals enjoying the park too. Because of its historical significance, and cultural importance, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. More than half of the complex is taken up by an Andalusian-style garden, still used for cultural and religious events in summer. The work was sponsored by Maryam bint Mohammed bin Abdullah, the sister of Fatima al-Fihri, famed for establishing the University of al-Qarawiyyin – and the two mosques have historically been rivals.
When people talk about the Medina, they normally mean both Old Fez (Fes el-Bali) and the newer Fes el-Jdid, founded in the 13th century during the Marinid Dynasty. What is believed to be the largest pedestrian zone in the world is an indecipherable maze of more than 9,000 mostly nameless alleys. The bewitching Medieval city of Fez was founded on the banks of the Jawhar River in the 8th century by Idris I, a descendant of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad.
Is Fez worth it if you only have one day?
Fez sits in north-central Morocco, east of Rabat and a good stretch north. Yes—It’ll be a tiring day, but you’ll make it. We spent four days between two riads on the edge of the medina and loved the maze, the food, the tiles, and the moments that tested our patience in the best travel way. Yes—Fez is absolutely worth visiting if you want to experience the raw, historic Morocco with its soul, chaos, and craft all in one place. We got lost in the labyrinth (Google Maps gave up), ate pastilla with locals, and found the Marinid Tombs for the best city view. Smelly leather tanneries, quiet madrasas, and enough alleys to humble any seasoned map reader.
The Borj Nord is designed after the Portuguese gun forts of the period, and had the dual purpose of defending Fes el-Bali, but also keeping the unruly population of the city under control. One of the most striking defensive features on the Medina’s walls is this 16th-century Saaid dynasty fortress towering over the city from the north and visible for miles. Note the cedar wood doors, which have been smoothed by pilgrims kissing and stroking their surface over the centuries. The shrine, sitting below the tallest minaret in Old Fez, was built between 1717 and 1824, and is mainly for Fez residents, although visiting practising Muslims can also enter the mausoleum.
Although the Idrisid realm was eventually reunified and enjoyed a period of peace under Ali ibn Muhammad and Yahya ibn Muhammad, it fell into decline again in the late 9th century. Andalusi families of mixed Arab and Iberian descent, who were expelled from Córdoba after a rebellion in 817–818 against al-Hakam I, were one major fez bet component of the immigrant population. The city was first founded in 789 as Madinat Fas on the southeast bank of the Jawhar River (now known as the Fez River) by Idris I, founder of the Idrisid dynasty. The two cities were united in 1070 and the name Fās was used for the combined site. During this period the capital city was known as al-ʿĀliyá, with the name Fās being reserved for the separate site on the other side of the river.
